Archive for March, 2010

Collioure joie du vivre

Collioure, France – a fantastic splash of colour for Spring.  It was Henry Matisse, the artist, who said, “In the whole of France there is no sky as blue as the one above Collioure.”  The French town, lying almost in Spain but its roots being resolutely Catalan, is best seen out of season, when the weather is warm but not hot and you can have the place to yourself.  Artists Matisse, Picasso and others developed their fauvist (meaning ‘wild beasts’) style of painting in the town, utilising intensely vivid, contrasting colours and simplified shapes.

This little town tumbles down the hillside in a splash of colours, wedged into the Cote Vermeille – or Vermillion Coast, named after the purplish-red rocks.  The outdoor markets sell all manner of local produce – fat, freshly-landed oysters from Cap Leucate, huge bulbs of garlic, paper cones of sardines.  The…

A Different Type Of Travel – With Kids

 
Valaparaiso on Horseback

You and your partner are finally taking your dream vacation. The only thing is, by the time you got around to taking that dream vacation it’s no longer just you and your partner; it’s you, your partner and the kids. It’s not the end of the world. Traveling with kids doesn’t have to be drudgery, but it will require some attitude adjustments, some negotiating and a lot of planning and open communication.

You’ll be best off if, from the beginning, you accept the fact that this is not the same trip you would be having if it were just adults. Not better, not worse, just different. Expectations are premeditated disappointments; so adjust those expectations from the start and you’re more likely to enjoy the experience you’re having instead of longing for the one you’re not.

Remember when you were teaching your children about sharing? You…

Alice in beachland

Cape Town is justly known for its plethora of gold-plated hotels and jet-set living.  Its beaches are some of the most well-known in the world: places where you can stretch out and people watch, enjoy the sunsets or just chill.  But Alice Fisher goes in search of a quieter beach, where she communes with nature.

Sandy Bay, located 10 miles south of Cape Town via a road that takes you under the watchful gaze of the Twelve Apostles, formed by the backbone of an ancient mountain peak, is simply sensational.

It is this scenery – the steep, green, wild majesty of the Twelve Apostles – that prepares you for the ultimate beach experience.  The road loops above Llandudno, and if you enter the upper part of the village, signs lead you to a car park.  A rough track runs sinuously along the hillside, away from civilisation.

This beach is…

Natural Highs – Colombia

To many foreigners, Colombia (or Locombia, the ‘crazy land’) was – and still is – the land of drug cartels and armed insurgents.  But to dwell on these fading memories is like giving up on love because you once got turned down at the school dance.  Colombia is a stunning and safe destination, ripe for exploration.

This wild and sprawling nation has everything: jungles, heritage, cuisine and a long Caribbean coastline, much of which has remained caught in a magical timewarp.

The country’s principal novelist, Gabriel García Márquez, captures this magic perfectly in  Love in the Time of Cholera when describing the city of Cartagena – “Cartagena stood unchanging at the edge of time… where flowers rusted and salt corroded, where nothing had happened for four centuries except a slow ageing among withered laurels”.

If I have a single defining memory of Colombia, it’s the intense…

Travel Snobbery Defined

 
A Gathering of “Travel Snobs”, Photo by Gretchen Wilson-Kalav

Travel snobbery. Does it exist? If so, how would you define it?

When mulling over the topic in the beginning, the first question seemed to be a “no-brainer” as I personally felt the collective answers would be a resounding “Yes!”. And, as you read through the replies, you will find that proved to be the outcome. It’s in the definitions of “travel snobbery” where things truly became interesting… Is it the backpacker? Is it the cruise ship dweller? Is it anyone, or everyone, who steps over their own threshold to venture somewhere else?

Ant Stone

Trail of Ants

Travel snobbery exists. It’s probably oozing over this very panel discussion in the guise of anti-snobbery. I imagine it as a slobbering beast that roams the globe — almost always “off the beaten track”. Its backpack is the lightest, it’s been…

A Perfect Week in Cyprus

Fish never tasted so good.  The BBC World Service report that London is being lashed by November storms with zero visibility in the Home Counties, but here, on the Akamas Peninsula in Cyprus, the view – and the fish – is perfect.

I am dropped off near Lara, a few kilometres down a bumpy track beyond Ayios Georgios.  A short walk later, I’m eating swordfish cooked by a 91-year old Cypriot fisherman named Vasilios, sitting at a table overlooking a silent, stony bay. The eggshell-blue tablecloth matches the effervescent, cerulean seawater below. There’s no-one around.

Vasilios wears the traditional vraka or baggy breeches. He doesn’t speak English but I manage to get by with my limited Greek.  He says he has fished off the Akamas and in Khrysoukhou Bay since the age of 15; he even fishes for swordfish out in the blue expanses towards Rhodes,…

Island Odyssey in Mozambique

For anyone with an ounce of escapism in their soul, there is no-where as magical as the Quirimbas Archipelago in Northern Mozambique with its Portuguese forts, tales of Arab merchants, ivory and slavery.

At tiny Pemba airport, in Northern Mozambique, a row of clocks on the wall tell different times around the world, but every single one has stopped. This oversight nearly results in me missing my flight to the Quirimbas Archipelago.

‘Don’t worry so, Sir, you’ll still make the flight.  It’s just you and 3 others on the plane.  And you won’t require a watch on Medjumbe, Mr Nic,’ says the check-in assistant. ‘Happy holiday in Moz-am-bee-kay.’

I climb into a single-engine 12-seater Cessna, and am thinking that the name of the destination – Medjumbe – sounds wildly romantic and idyllic, when the whup-whup of the propeller announces our departure.

‘We’ll fly over…

Unsung coastal beauty

Saint David’s Day (Welsh: Dydd Gŵyl Dewi Sant) is the feast day of Saint David, the patron saint of Wales, and falls on 1 March each year.   To celebrate Saint David’s Day this year, Escapism Magazine enjoyed a visit to the glorious, unsung Glamorgan Heritage Coastal Path, an area of virgin coast that is frequently overlooked by tourists in favour of the Gower and Pembrokeshire.

The Coastal Path begins at Aberthaw and runs 14 miles to Porthcawl.  In between, there are some decidedly stunning beaches and wild coastal scenery – the section from St Donat’s Castle to Southerndown (approximately 2 miles) is simply breathtaking for its wild beauty.

The far-reaching views from atop the cliffs are of the Welsh mountains to the north and the brooding hills of Exmoor across the Bristol Channel.  Below, a wide yawn of yellow sand stretches against a mirror-calm sea.  Spring is truly here, with shrill…